Elie Saab Fall/Winter 2015

By Liza Foreman

PARIS

Elie Saab

Fall/Winter 2015

The scene was set for the Elie Saab Fall/Winter 2015 show, with the interiors of the vast tent-like structure transformed into a magical forest with cut-out trees branching artistically over the runway.

The muse of The Way of the Woods collection was, in due course, to venture into a mysterious forest, her clothing to become one with the sublime surroundings.

Shades of pine and moss, it was announced, would flourish upon the garments, from graphic prints in crepe to lace to be transformed into sprigs or a signature bag decorated with a laser cut forestial detail.

Or that at least was the theory spelled out in show notes that then became reality on the runway.

The music was a choral blast of haunting tones, attracting swarms of fashionista scattered like lost deer in the gardens outside the doors. And then rock followed. Sweet Dreams. Some of them want to be abused.

Then inside the intimate space, with the feel of a circus tent, where the family of fashion gathered to watch the show, the cover on the carpet was whipped back like a curtain opening before a production, and the voices of the photographers boomed like a circus master: uncross your legs.

The beating of the drum, and out marched a model in a floor length black dress with military gold buttons decorating the bust. The theme continued with the militaristic knobs decorating a jacket, and gloves or a small bag worn with a black mini dress with long sleeves and boots.

And then more models walked through the forest, in a type of plain green military camouflage used for sexy short dresses and longer gowns, before creations covered in rich blue floral imprints added a rich, historic and artistic touch to some of the full length looks.

Saab's elegant eveningwear bent was never lost, and the military touches or floral prints or a furry jacket that looked like a walking moss creation, all fit into his princess meets girly, sexy and, usually, refined set of look. Some pieces had a slick, night club of old type feel that looked a little retro, like his designs so often feel.