By Liza Foreman
Mugler Fall/Winter 2015
For A/W2015, Mugler designer David Koma looked to microchips and circuit boards and thought in terms of sculptural dimensions to turn his digital muses into shapely minidresses and mannish suits for his second outing for the brand.
He dubbed the approach technical craftsmanship but the silhouettes which were also seen in his Spring/Summer 2015 collection were designed in an old-school fashion to accentuate the hips, bust and collarbone, using sheer paneling and eyelets of steel nimrod embroidery, like the metal on a chipboard.
Koma created angular forms that wrapped around the body, by using a mix of warm and also technical materials, from white wool crepe to what he called a 3D sequin shine seen peeping from below tailored cabana and sharp tailored peplums. Eveningwear included silk gowns draped in iridescent sequins which descended towards the ankle in hourglass form.
The results: Litle black dresses and mannish overcoats or mini skirts paired with black sweaters, lined with brightly shining sequins or a dress with see through panels that extended into a collar like round neck design.
What sounded inventive and new on paper translated into little cocktail dresses and Seventies style white coats worn with turtlenecks, or gold patchwork paneling found on a white mini dress or a brown sequined top shining like diamonds from beneath a white suit with cropped trousers.
The look was mostly flirty and cocktail hour with a touch of masculine found in the suits.
The beats playing in the white interiors of the Grand Palais have a futuristic feel but at best the pieces were minimalist and dotted in computer board type Metallica from time to time, but were not that obviously inspired by the infinite possibilities that the designer spoke of in the show notes or those intricate real world connections that result from microchips and circuit boards that were mentioned in the notes as well.
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